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Maqbara of Nadir Shah and Adil Shah in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Friday, June 23, 2017

The Maqbara of Nadir Shah and Adil Shah are located around 2 KM away from the Maqbara of Begum Shah Shuja. There is a muddy path that leads to it.
Maqbara of Nadir Shah and Adil Shah in Burhanpur

Directions for the same are tagged on Google maps.

Mr Chaudhari, who we had met at the Maqbara of  Begum Shah Shuja had already informed Mr. Taide another ASI executive posted at Maqbara of Nadir Shah that we would be visiting this place.
Maqbara of Nadir Shah
There is no sign of humans here, total wilderness. There is no provision for food and water either. Luckily we had very little water remaining and we were rationing the water. Both the Maqbara are built very close to each other.
The cenotaph in the middle belongs to Nadir Shah
There are plenty of unknown tombs here. Some of them had inscriptions on them, not sure if it is Arabic or Urdu.
Tombstone
The bigger tomb belonged to Nadir Shah. It is built on a podium. A series of steps leads one to the tomb door. He was the founder of the Faruqui Dynasty in the 15th century. The cenotaph  in the centre belongs to him. There are a couple of other cenotaph too, not sure who they belong too.
Maqbara of Adil Shah
There was also a Maulana aka priest there. He looks after the maintenance of these two Tombs. He too is unaware of the of the other cenotaph. The entrance to the tomb is under lock and key. The Maulana showed us around in the tomb.
The cenotaph placed in the middle with a blue chaddar on it belongs to Adil Shah
We then visited the Adil Shah tomb located a couple of feet away. This tomb was small in size. The cenotaph placed in the middle with a blue chaddar on it belongs to Adil Shah, not sure who the other cenotaph belong too.
Thats us, from the right, Mr Taide, Maulana and Me.
Mr. Taide, then gave us a lift on his bike to take us to Mazaar of Tota Maina. He was stunned, when heard that we had walked it all the way to this place from Kali Masjid in Burhanpur.

Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuja in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Thursday, June 22, 2017

The Maqbara of Begum Shah Shuja in Burhanpur is located very close to the tombs of Nadir Shah and Adil Shah.
Entrance to the Maqbara of Begum Shah Shuja in Burhanpur


Directions to Adil Shah and Nadir Shah Maqbara are tagged on Google maps, one has to cross by the Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuza before reaching the other Maqbara.

Bilquis Begum was the wife of Prince Shah Shuja. He was the son of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz. Bilquis Begum died after giving birth to her daughter. A Maqbara was built for her in Burhanpur.
Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuja in Burhanpur
The main entrance to the Maqbara is currently closed. So one has to enter the premises by climbing over the broken wall. There is also another way to enter the premises.

We met Mr. Chaudhari there, who works with the ASI. He is closely looking into the re development or renovation of this Maqbara.
Cenotaph at Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuja in Burhanpur
The Maqbara, had a very different look to it, something very unusual to the ones I have been so far. The dome of it made of black stone looks like a watermelon cut into half and placed atop it. It looked like pillars were cut in half and the same were used to construct the Maqbara. There is a window places on one side from where one can see the cenotaph inside. Strangely the window had a glass. There is a small door to enter the Maqbara premises. The door was opened to us and we stepped in to see it.
The artwork at Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuja in Burhanpur
The walls of the Maqbara were beautifully painted from the inside. The intricate paintings were worth seeing and photographing. The paintings from the dome have peeled off. but the walls are intact.
This is a good place to meditate as there is no one around to disturb you. This place is totally isolated.
The ceiling of Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuja in Burhanpur
We could spot the Maqbara of Nadir Shah and Adil Shah from here.
Mr. Chaudhari and Me at Maqbara of Begun Shah Shuja in Burhanpur

There is no provision for food and water here. 

Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Wednesday, May 31, 2017

Akbari Saari is located in Monin Pura in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh. It was around 450 metres away from Kali Masjid. The route is tagged on Google maps , so you just can't get lost.
Within Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh
The entrance to Akbari Saari has been re plastered. Again It had a Darwaza to enter its premises. It had only one door to enter and exit. 

The Sarai was rectangular in shape, with the door placed on one of the sides. 
Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh
The history of the Sarai, is put up on this board, if you can read and understand then do post the same in the comments section. This place was built by Abdul Rahim Khan-e-Khana. Not sure when it was constructed.
Entrance to Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh
There were identical looking rooms with small domes all around the walls of the Sarai. These are currently not occupied and in ruins.   
Newly constructed door to Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

  
Within Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh


Currently pigs have made them their home. 
History of Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh
I am sure ASI will surely work on the re development of this place and make it tourist destination.
Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh
Goats in Akbari Sarai in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh
There is no provision for food and water at this place.

Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Monday, May 29, 2017

The Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid is located on the Qila Road, in Monin Pura in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh. 
Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

The Kali Masjid was located very close to Hotel Madhuvan. So close that we could see the Minaret and Masjid Walls from our room. 

We had breakfast in the form of vada's, bread cutlet and Kali Jalebi at Milan Mithai, located close to Hotel Madhuvan. Pls note that breakfast items are sold only in the morning. The snacks here are finger licking good. 
Milan Mithai near Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

We then headed over to entrance to Kali Masjid. The walls of the Masjid look like that of a fort. Made of black stone. It had a nice border atop the walls. The two Minarets placed at two ends were beautiful. 
Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

Near the entrance of the Masjid are many shops. The Entry to the Masjid is via a Darwaza. The Darwaza had a Chor Darwaza (Small Door) in it. Looks like we were entering a fort premises. 

I looked up and so the ceiling and it was beautifully painted.
There is water to clean ones legs on the right as we enter. 
Entrance to Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur
The design on the ceiling, I was talking about.

The Masjid stood in front of us. It was very beautiful. At two ends stood two Minarets. Entry to the top of it is restricted. It appeared to me, like the Masjid didn't have a ceiling.

The Masjid was built by Adil Shah Faruqui somewhere in the 16th century. 
Place to wash the feet at Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

There was hardly anyone at the Masjid. The pillars of the Masjid are in Symmetry, plus want was interesting is that the fans had a white bulb fitted to it. It served two purposes, provide breeze and also light at night. 
Symetrical pillars at Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

We were not able to spot the Caretaker, as we wanted to see the Tasbeh, rosary made from thousand beeds of Olives. If you do a google search then you should be able to see a photo of it. 
Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur
That's us at Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur

The Masjid premises was calm and quiet. I felt at peace here. The cool breeze blowing , the sound of the leaves of the tree was like music to my ears. I wished to spend more time here, but as we were short of time , we moved out to go see the Akbari Sarai located a couple of meters away.

Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh in India

Monday, April 24, 2017

Burhanpur is a small city in Madhya Pradesh. It is around 500 KM away from Mumbai city in Maharashtra. It is located very close to the Maharashtra Madhya Pradesh border.

Burhanpur was ruled by various dynasties in the course of time. Rashtrakuta Dynasty, The Faruqi Dynasty, The Moghuls and finally the Marathas. 

There are a lot of historical sites in and around Burhanpur which are a must of history lovers. 

The important places are
Asirgarh fort, Shahi Qila, Kundi Bhandara, Dargah-e-Hakimi.

Burhanpur is known for its textile industry. As we travelled in the interiors of the city, we could hear the sound of the machines. Most houses have power looms within their premises. Small scale industries.

Fathima told me that entry and exit from Burhanpur town is via a Darwaza. Meaning the entire town is built in fort like premises with walls surrounding it. Interesting . Something similar to
Vasai fort near Mumbai. 

Burhanpur has got both retail and wholesale shops, selling clothes, grains and other articles. 

There are many places to stay and eat here. We stayed at Hotel Madhuvan (lodging only). The food in Burhanpur is extremely cheap and good. We tried at Rehmaniya Restaurant and Sattar Mutton Hotel. They serve both Veg and Non Veg (Chicken and Mutton). What about beef? I asked.

The hotels won't serve you beef but the roadside small sizes eateries will serve you beef samosa and beef cutlet. Yummy and very economical cost wise. No side effects on the next day either. 

The beef will surely make my trip complete. Jaora is another city in Madhya Pradesh where I went crazy eating beef. 

As we had come from Mumbai, we had a tough time getting signals on our Vodafone SIM cards in and around Burhanpur. 

We had a few more places on our itinerary for the next day.

Dargah-e-hakimi located in Lodhipura, Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Monday, April 17, 2017

Dargah-e-Hakimi is located in  Lodhipura, Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh. One has to travel by the Dargah-e-Hakimi road to reach it.
After being disappointed at Kundi Bhandara, we travelled around 7 KM to reach Dargah-e-Hakimi.

Syedi Abdul Qadir Hakimuddin (1665 - 1730 AD) is the holy saint of the Bora Community. He was buried in Burhanpur. His grave is visited by pilgrims all year round. 

The Dargah-e-Hakimi complex comprises of Mosque, gardens and accommodation for the pilgrims. 

Dargah-e-hakimi

Non Bora Community members are also allowed in the Dargah premises. They have to cover their heads. The Dargah premises was packed with people. 

The domes of the Mosque's are beautifully designed. All the three mosques are white in color. The white colored mosque and the blue color skies made the picture perfect.


Though there were so many people seated there, not a sound could I hear. There was silence. A nice place to be at peace with oneself. 

After Fathima offered prayers, we then headed out of the premises to have some snacks in the form of samosa's and meat cutlets. 

The time was 6 PM on my watch and we had to hunt for a place to stay for the night. We decided to head to Burhanpur town for accommodation. 

After checking a couple of places we finally settled down for Hotel Madhuvan located very close to the Kali Masjid aka Jama Masjid in Burhanpur. 

The rooms were not that great.But that didn't bother us much as we are travelers and we were there to visit historical sites, instead of staying in the room. The room cost was Rs.600 for a double bed non AC. We didn't take AC rooms as it was cold there. The good thing about this hotel is that the checkout time is 24 hours from the time one checks in. Nice na. As we checked in at 6:30 PM on Friday evening, we were to checkout at 6:30 PM on Saturday evening. 

We paid the rickshaw driver Rs.1200 for showing us around.

Kundi Bhandara located in Sultanpura near Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Wednesday, April 5, 2017

Kundi Bhandara is located in Sultanpura near Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh. One has to travel by the Kundi Bhandara Road to reach it. 
Information on Kundi Bhandara located in Sultanpura near Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

After visiting Raja Jai Singh ki Chhatri, we headed by rickshaw to Kundi Bhandara. The route details are tagged on Google maps. It is around 14 KM away. Though it is much closer from Burhanpur. 
As we were approaching this place,  the rickshaw driver showed us small wells by the side of the roads. He informed us that there are many such wells around Burhanpur. There are a total of 103 wells. The first one is for Air and the others for water. The depth of these wells ranges from 30 feet to 80 feet.

We saw these unknown tombs on the way to Kundi Bhandara
The Kundi Bhandara aka underground water management and distribution system, was formed when Abdul Rahim Khan-e-Khana in 1615 AD. This system of water distribution was in use in Iran and Iraq. It helped in distributing clean and pure water to the citizens of Burhanpur. 
Kundi Bhandara premises, the lift which goes underground is blue in color in the centre of the photo
Kundi Bhandara is not in use now. But it was used extensively in its hay days. i.e. atleast 3 centuries. 
Information on Kundi Bhandara
There is a small lift that takes one to the bottom of the underground system. But sadly that day it was under maintenance so we couldn't see it from the inside. I was informed by the rickshaw driver that it is dark in there and that one needs a good torch to see it. It is also filled with water. 

Wells located all over Burhanpur
Disappointed that we couldn't see it its functioning, we headed to Dargah-E-Hakimi in Burhanpur.

Raja Jai singh ki chhatri in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Monday, April 3, 2017

Raja Jai Singh ki Chhatri is located at Boharda in Madhya Pradesh. Shahi Qila in Burhanpur is around 6.5 KM away.
Raja Jai singh ki chhatri in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

This site is tagged on Google maps. But the approach road is not in very good condition. As we were travelling in the rickshaw it took us ages to reach there.

One has to travel by the Mohana road to reach it. The Chhatri is located very close to River Tapti. There is no civilization around the structure. It is in the middle of nowhere.
History of Raja Jai singh ki chhatri in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh
Fathima and Me at Raja Jai singh ki chhatri in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh
There is no provision for food and water here. 

The Chhatri was constructed by Emperor Aurangzeb in honor of the memory of Raja Jai Singh. He was the commander of the Mughal Force. He died in Burhanpur. 
Raja Jai singh ki chhatri in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh
The square shaped structure is built on a podium. With a fleet of stairs to reach it. The structure is open from all sides. There is a big dome surrounded by eight small domes. There are beautifully carved arched pillars supporting the domes. 
Raja Jai singh ki chhatri in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh
Raja Jai singh ki chhatri in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh
The dome is very airy from the inside. The cool breeze makes you want to sit there and enjoy the wild vegetation around. One has to remove ones footwear to visit it. There is a caretaker for it too.
From there we traveled to
Kundi Bhandara. On the way we located a couple of tombs ,  but there were no signboards, around them, making it hard to identify them.

Shahi Qila in Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh

Saturday, April 1, 2017

Shahi Qila is a beautiful palace built by the Farooqui rulers in Burhanpur (Madhya Pradesh). It is currently in ruins. It is located very close to the River Tapti and Rajghat. It is on the Rajpura Road in Monin Pura, Burhanpur.

Shahi Qila premises in Burhanpur


Shahi Qila premises in Burhanpur

After visiting the
Tomb of Shah Nawaz Khan, the rickshaw driver brought us here. Again this Palace is tagged on Google maps. As in the city premises one can walk to this place or come by a private mode of transport. Special rickshaw are available here. 

The good thing is that there is provision for food and water outside the fort premises. There are toilets in the fort premises. 


Shahi Qila in Burhanpur
Shahi Qila was the residence of Shah Jahan. 

There is a canon painted back placed near the fort premises. 


Information on Shahi Qila in Burhanpur
There is a entry fee to visit the fort premises. The fort premise is open from sunrise to sunset to the public. 

ASI has worked on this fort premises. The inside of the fort is nice and clean. They have re built gardens in the fort premises.
Most of the structures are completely in ruins. 
Cannon at Shahi Qila in Burhanpur
The fort offers a fantastic view of the Rajghat below. There are a couple of temples at the Rajghat. The River Tapti quietly flows near it. In the waters of the river Tapti, there is  a huge stone. It is painted white and it resembles a elephant. On the other side of the river are a couple of more historic monuments. One of them is Ahukhana. I am note sure of the names of the others, the rickshaw driver was not aware of them either. The monuments had tall Minarets next to them. 

The entire fort premises can be seen in 30 minutes time. 


Haman aka Royal bath at Shahi Qila in Burhanpur
One of the attractions of the palace is the Haman or the Royal Bath. It was built specially by Shah Jahan for his wife Mumtaz. The Haman is a dome shaped stucture. I was beautifully painted on the inside. It had a small bath tub in the middle. The intricate paintings in blue are worth seeing. 
Ceiling of Haman aka Royal Bath at Shahi Qila in Burhanpur
The rickshaw driver pointed at one of the paintings on the ceiling and said that it was the inspiration for the Taj Mahal. He also told us that the Taj Mahal was to be built here instead of Agra. Not sure how much of it is true. 

Our rickshaw driver cum guide also showed a roadway in the fort walls that leads one directly to Rajghat.

Temples at Rajghat near Shahi Qila in Burhanpur

Shah Jahan had seven wives and Mumtaz was his fourth wife. He built the Taj Mahal for her. I wonder what he built for the other wives. 
Fathima and Me at Shahi Qila premises in Burhanpur
Shahi Qila premises in Burhanpur
We then visited the Shahi Mosque. A wall and a Minaret is all that remains of it now.
Remains of Shahi Masjid in Shahi Qila premises in Burhanpur
The are a couple of other structures on the fort premises. Not sure of their names. 
Structures within Shahi Qila premises in Burhanpur
The fort cum palace was four storey tall. Access to the rooms within it is restricted. 
Structures within Shahi Qila premises in Burhanpur
Had a amazing time here, we then headed to see Raja Jai Singh Chhatri.

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